From 9/8/12

Sunshine & seawater! After weeks of gray, today our eyes remembered
the colors of a big arctic sky.  As we neared the Chukchi Sea,
hundreds of swans with golden necks and wings on fire gathered in the
setting sun. We poked out into Kotzebue Sound but were turned back by
wind chop and the fading light. So we are waiting until morning to
cross, hoping for calm weather. Looking out at the aurora dancing
above what should be our last campsite, it is hard to believe the end is so near.