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“This is hallowed ground–use of it is a privilege.” Theodor Swem’s words ring very true for us as we pass through the dramatic landscape of Gates of the Arctic National Park & Preserve. The most consistent and powerful emotion we have felt as we travel across this vast stretch of largely protected wilderness that flanks the Brooks Range (Arctic National Wildlife Refuge, Gates of the Arctic & Noatak parks) is that of gratitude. Gratitude for the opportunity to experience a wild place where caribou migrate in the tens of thousands, where tiny Northern Wheatears make their summer home after a long trek from eastern Africa, where we can remember what it means to be humbled. Gratitude for the foresight of key individuals and a conservation movement born largely of reverence and respect. These public lands are a gift to us all and provide the backdrop for the age-old drama of the arctic to continue.
We camped just outside of Anaktuvuk Pass last night and hiked into town this morning under a light drizzle. Steep rocky peaks dressed in fall’s yellows and reds jut up all around us. The weather the past few days has been sunny and warm, and our bodies have loved the relatively light loads and firm walking. Abundant blueberries provide a welcome excuse for an occasional sprawl on the tundra–I think we enjoy the soft moss bed as much as the taste of tart berries! For the first time on this journey, we didn’t camp alone last night. We met another hiker at the Anaktuvuk River and enjoyed swapping stories before a rainstorm sent us to our tents.
We picked up our packrafts and food resupply from the post office (thanks Ash!) and are getting geared up to head out on the John River tomorrow morning. This is our last planned town stop before Kotzebue so we’re enjoying a few amenities before leaving. What we will miss most in the next few weeks is not a shower or a proper meal (though they are awfully nice!), but the pleasant surprises of town visits. In every community we’ve visited, we’ve found kindness and generosity, often in unexpected places. We’ve learned so much from people with different lifestyles but shared human values. And hearing from all of you via the blog (a new experience for us), email, phone, and thoughtful notes in our resupply boxes is such a treat. It’s not that we feel lonely when we’re out but simply that the input from others has helped to shape our journey in a very positive way. For me, this has been the biggest surprise of the past 5 months. I didn’t expect that venturing out into the wilderness would provide such a strong sense of human connection–but many of the best things in life are impossible to predict.
Mark McNamara said:
The only downside of this amazing trip is that we don’t get our Glacier Point updates. The migrating birds just showed up and I wish Caroline was there to inform me and us of what they are. I saw Canadian Geese and Heron and misc. hawks starting to arrive. Some ducks too. Wow, that doesn’t sound as amazing as her reports but every new bird that passes by reminds me on Caroline and Pat. Your place is in great shape!!
andrewskurka said:
Engaging adventures like this have a tendency to consume you up until the very end. Then one day you look up and are almost at Kotz. Start preparing yourselves for the end of this journey, and be ready to accept it when it arrives. Also savor the “lasts” more before the end too.
Brendan said:
I’ve enjoyed all the posts! It’s remarkable that the story began on the water months ago in Washington, and that you’ve been at it all this time through all kinds of terrain. The scenery sounds beautiful, and I’m sure that after living on mostly grains for months, the blueberries taste great.
Enjoy the rest of the great trip!!!
Talk to you soon.
B
Merylin Traynor said:
The Inupiat of Kaktovik and their extended familys in Anaktuvuk are all enjoying berries now. Lots of salmon berries along the coastal plain. You are experiencing the land as their ancestors did. Merylin
Erik LeRoy said:
We’re glad we didn’t see a picture of that river crossing before you did it.
Erik & Beth
adrian said:
I’m sure Mr. Swem is proud to be quoted by the likes of you on this epic journey. Be safe on the home stretch! Those of us cheering on the sidelines are enjoying every play.
Tom Gotchy said:
One of my favorite pieces of writing so far, words with the power to bring tears.
Celest and I are off to the North Cascades on our own mini adventure, a repeat trip through the Ptarmigan Traverse, the last time 13 years ago. You two inspirational adventurers will be in our thoughts and conversations many times I’m sure.
And directly because of you, off we go one last time rummaging through our packs, tossing those needless trinkets off into the pile of stuff not needed, us wanting to be more like you, and less like mule. This last batch of wonderful photos cut our trekking pole total down from four to two. Real positive changes because of you!
Roman Dial said:
Like Skurka said, savor the end, and while you may feel a strong pull to the finish, maybe resist it and embrace the final weeks you have on this remarkable journey, bonded to each other and your comfort with the North.
Roman Dial said:
Just occurred to me that perhaps you, Caroline, are the first modern woman — or any woman — to traverse the length of the Brooks Range. How cool is that!
Jules said:
Wow, you totally captured the essence of that place with your words and photos! The Brook’s range has definitely taught me gratitude, humbleness, and always left me longing for vastness. I can’t believe you’re on the home stretch already, seems like just yesterday I watched you christian the boats in Bellingham, and I obsessively watched the weather and stressed for you your first few weeks out. I don’t want your adventure to end, what about all of us that are tagging along?! Hugs you two!
John, Elizabeth, Bennett & Eliot said:
Fantastic photos and words from you two. I was quickly on Google Earth plotting your next steps and then gasped as well: “They are almost to Kotzebue!” I’m happy and sad for you and all of us at the same time. Happy that we get to see you both soon back in the neighborhood, but sad for you that this adventure is almost over. But there will be many more I’m sure, of all different kinds. And I’m sure you will start training for that next adventure the very day you return.
Joanne Farrell said:
I have read and re-read this entry, so beautifully written and so much the essence of your life together. As a church organist, I play for many funerals and I cannot help but think that this passage would be the perfect eulogy for either of you.
Pat, I remember when you were 16 and had just finished hiking the Northville-Placid trail with a group of your high school buddies. The first days had been sunny and lovely, but the last few days were rainy and chilly. The other boys were filling up on pizza and coke and talking about how glad they were to go home, shower, watch tv, etc. You looked at me and said “Mom, I could turn around and go right back into those woods.”
I also recall people saying that you wanted to go to the Alaskan wilderness “to find yourself.” You would then state that you knew what you wanted and where you thought you could find it ……. yes, you did know yourself when you were in high school, and you knew there were still wild, unsettled, majestic places. Then, you and Caroline found each other…….
Oh, it all brings tears to my eyes.
love, mom
Erik LeRoy said:
I went through these pictures again and I can’t figure out how you can carry enough calories in those little packs to fuel you to the next resupply.
Willy Van Hemert said:
Caroline and Pat:
As I read some of the replies, it suddenly dawned on me that this particular adventure is almost over and there is some sadness in our hearts and in your hearts I’m sure. Sadness in leaving a simple but rich and fulfilling life style. Sadness in ending the story you have been sharing with us (like a great book that you don’t want to end). Sadness in leaving the places that allow you to experience what makes the world great – the overwelming beauty of the land and the kindness of the people that you encountered.
But these thoughts of sadness will pass and what will remain is the realization that you accomplished an amazing and wonderful feat. And it is something no one can ever take away. We are very proud of you. Thank you ever so much for letting us share the adventure with you.